Hiking the Causeway Coast Way

The Causeway Coast Way is a 52 km long trail which is so beautiful, that instead of hiking quicker and aiming for a fast speed, I only slowed down. To take in the gorgeous landscape. Hear the waves break and roll up the sandy beach. Feel the wind on my face. And to relax and feel happy.

Disclosure: This trip was supported by Tourism Ireland and Discover Northern Ireland, additionally I also received a fee for my work. This does not influence the article as I maintain full editorial control of the content published on this site. Read the Transparency Disclaimer for more information on affiliate links & blogger transparency.

The last time in Ireland I was Sea Stack Climbing in Donegal and hiking the International Appalachian Trail. It was a great adventure and I loved the country - the North of Ireland is still wild, beautiful and offers so much possibilities to outdoor enthusiasts. This time I picked out the Causeway Coast Way, which is also one of Lonely Planet’s top destinations in 2018. But rest assured - besides two places the trail is calm and you mostly hike on your own! Lets start things off with the video I made - tapping of the foot with the music is definitely allowed!

Doesn’t that look awesome? Yes, I was unbelievably lucky with the weather (and I placed so much good faith in the weather forecast that I didn’t even take a hardshell 🤣), three days of hiking in the sun and 20+ degrees with just the last morning being a bit of mist and drizzle (though it was atmospheric, as you saw in the video and the images underneath). So lets dive in into the detailed Guide!

Getting there

I flew to Dublin, hopped on an Aircoach Bus, got a coffee and Sandwich in Belfast and switched to the Translink train to Coleraine, from where I hopped on the Bus to Portstewart. From Dublin to Portstewart is a enjoyable 4,5 hours journey with Public Transportation, and trains and Busses were running on time, staff was friendly and helpful, and I enjoyed looking out of the window. In Portstewart I strolled a short walk to my B&B, where I dropped that part of my gear which I didn’t need and then went for a walk to Portstewart Strand, the start of the Causeway Coast Way. Now the Causeway Coast Way is the hiking route between Portstewart and Ballycastle, but there’s also a Causeway Coastal Route which is for people who prefer to drive a car. I think you miss out on some of the best bits if you drive a car around, many of the images here were taken at spots far from a road and hence I’d encourage everyone reading this to hike the Coastway Coast Way, don’t drive it. Yes, the Giant’s Causeway is amazing and the Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge is thrilling, but there’s over 50 km more of amazing scenery! Add in that the Coastway Coast Way is easy, has great paths, you can hike it in three or more days, and there’s the Rambler Bus which can take you to the next stop if you can’t walk anymore, and you realize this is a beautiful hike for any age and for hiking novices and experts alike. Alright, enough preaching 🤣 Lets go hiking!

Portstewart - The Giant’s Causeway

The Cul Erg B&B in Portstewart is a stone throw away from the Causeway Coast Way, about three kilometres from the start at Portstewart Strand. After a long day of travelling I really needed to get moving, so after checking in I walked through Portstewart to the Beach and the start of the hike. Portstewart Strand is a beautiful, 3 km long golden beach and behind it are some of the biggest Sand Dunes in Northern Ireland. I made a stop at Harry’s Shack, which is a beautifully located Restaurant at the start of the beach. I walked in and enquired about the possibility of a Dinner. After a bit of banter with Donal, the owner, I was granted my wish (the kitchen was almost closed!) and sat down outside. That beach was just beautiful, and the laughter and screams of kids enjoying the water echoed over the sand till the terrace where I was drinking my cold, local beer. After a fabulous Dinner I thanked Donal and the staff at the Shack for their hospitality, and headed back towards the beach - the sun was setting, and I’m always up for watching the sun set into the ocean. Where there’s a sun, there’s often also a moon, and as I turned around the almost full moon was rising behind the dunes. Perfection.

During the gorgeous Dusk light I hiked back to the B&B, making too many photo stops along the way.

The next morning started with a delicious breakfast. The Cul Erg B&B is known for it outstanding offerings in the morning, and the praise I read online was spot on. Hikers will enjoy the many different options, this breakfast had me powered for the whole day - I didn’t eat another bite till Dinner at 19 o’clock that evening!

Time to hike. Out the door, left and then along the coast towards the Golf grounds. The Causeway Coast Way is very well way-marked here, and you hike all the time on the left of the Golf course, next to the sea, towards the next town. After 1,5 hours I reached Portrush, a popular little town. Coming from the West I didn’t get why it was popular, but once I passed the harbour and walked up to Ramore Head I could see why.

Ramore Head is a land tongue which gives great views out the the West and County Donegal as well the East and pretty much the complete trail which lay before me. It was nearing noon, the sun was shining down on me with 26°C and I was in need of more water - and a coffee. The Arcadia Beach Café is situated next to the trail, and has a super-good Kale Smoothie and Cappuccino. They also refilled my water bottle without a problem, and it was nice to sit inside in the shade for a while.

I hiked close to the water along the Portrush East Strand, which felt like it never did want to end. I also felt like I should drop my pack, shed my clothes and take a swim - but then I made the crucial mistake of going so ultralight that I didn’t pack a swim shorts. Big mistake! As I reached White Rocks at the End of the East Strand I needed some shade, and happily one of the large, white limestone pillars offered me a place to cool down. The white cliffs were beautiful, and you could also hike and swim at the base of them, but I had to much electronics with me, which don’t like water so much. Happily there is an equally outstanding Cliff path which takes one along the top of the cliffs and onwards towards Dunluce Castle and Portballintrae. I thus opted for the Cliff path after exploring the cliffs a wee bit from underneath, and was not disappointed by hiking on top - those views!

The sandy Cliff path was framed by wild flowers on both sides, and a fresh breeze helped to keep me cool. I reached the sidewalk along the A2 and took a look back over the White Rocks and Portrush East Strand, and felt happy. Traffic on this Tuesday afternoon wasn’t bad, and the views down towards the sea and the white limestone cliffs were beautiful indeed. After a while I reached Dunluce Castle, which I decided to skip, and hiked on towards Portballintrae.

By now the heat was almost unbearable. I had drunk my 1 l of water already since leaving the Café in Portrush, and it was still a while till the next town. There was also no shade - something that I really felt on my feet (I was wearing my ❤️ Luna Sandals OSO Flaco) so as I arrived in Portballintrae I decided to hop on the Bus to the Bushmills Distillery. Hiding in the shade I waited for my ride, and sitting a bit later in the cool bus I was happy about my decision: The 3 km walk to Bushmills would have been fully in the hot afternoon sun. I walked into the Bushmills Distillery and took part in a Tour of the distillery. If you’re into Irish Whiskey and have never been to a distillery the tour is well worth a visit, and if you’re a seasoned Whiskey Connoisseur then you’ll appreciate the dram or two for tasting at the end of the tour!

I really liked the visit & the whiskey, but still needed to go to the Giant’s Causeway. A look on the map suggested walking along the small road (getting back on the trail would have involved a detour) so I opted again for the Bus. However, with 30 minutes time till it went I decided to explore the little town of Bushmills - which was a good idea! There’s an old mill and weir next to the beautiful old stone bridge, which is where I took the next image.

Then I hopped on the bus and five minutes later got out at the Causeway Hotel. I first I went in to the Giant’s Causeway Visitor Centre and inquired if I could get to the Giant’s Causeway later in the evening, for sunset. To my surprise the visit to the Giant’s Causeway is completely free and yes, you can visit it at any time of the day or night. With that knowledge I checked in and was happy to have a long, cold shower to get rid of the grime which had collected on my sandal-clad feet. With clean feet and clean clothes I headed for an early Dinner, as I didn’t want to miss the sunset.

Dinner was fantastic, and despite being already 12 hours awake and having walked a fair bit I was so happy to go see the Giant’s Causeway. This is an UNESCO World Heritage Site and the images I have seen of it looked like this one:

I hiked down the street (during the day there’s a small bus which brings you down and up if you want) and was a bit surprised that I wasn’t alone with my idea of watching the sun set at the Giant’s Causeway. There were probably at least another hundred people, with a handful of photographers, who wanted to see the sunset. Well, what can I say: The Giant’s Causeway is magnificent. I spent three hours there and was the last one to hike back up to the Hotel, and the next morning I’d spend another two hours here, and still I feel I could have spend more time there. The hexagonal basalt columns are just so inspiring and so photogenic that I had serious problems leaving this place behind. Here’s some impressions from the evening:

The Giant’s Causeway - White Park Bay

I went to bed late, and still was considering getting up at 4 o’clock to go photograph the sunrise. I didn’t. I did get up early-ish, though, had a breakfast of pancakes (because Pancakes ❤️) and then went to visit the Giant’s Causeway Visitor centre. Hikers pay £10 entry (that’s with a discount) and you get a lot of background info on the Giant’s Causeway, from how it got to be, how FinnMcCool built it, and much more. You can loan an Audio Guide (included in the price) when you walk down to the Giant’s Causeway, which gives you more info on it (I didn’t as I couldn’t return it). By 10 o’clock I put my pack back on my shoulders and strolled down, took another photo, and continued on the Cliff path towards Dunseverick Castle.

The yellow Cliff Trail takes you along on the top of the Cliff, and from here you get some of the finest views along the whole Causeway Coast Way. I could see back towards Portstewart, the beginning, and towards Rathlin Island, Ballycastle and even further away in the distance was Scotland. Add in that after the hundreds of people at the Giant’s Causeway (it gets about 1 million visitors a year, with the most during the summer season - the day I was there there were 5.000 people visiting!) up here on the cliff path I met about a dozen of people. On the whole 8 km stretch, I met around 12 people. Given the absolutely AMAZING views this riddles me a bit, but I guess it also shows that if you leave the honey pot behind you will find peace & tranquility.

The cliff trail is wide and hiking towards Ballycastle you’ll have the Sea on your left, while green fields, sometimes with sheep, will be on your right. Here and there are benches for you to take a rest and enjoy the view. I also spotted the Port Moon Bothy, which is a hut for sea kayakers (there’s no path down to it) and which looked great from up on top. I imagine exploring the coast via kayak and spending the night in the Bothy is also very memorable - maybe the next time!

The Cliff Trail goes along the Dunseverick Castle, which really is just a wee ruin - see it in the video. Here I met a French backpacker who was taking in the view, and we chatted a bit - he was exploring Ireland on foot, hitch hiking and taking the Bus, which sounded like a great way to explore Ireland. I wished him well & continued on the trail, which weaved along the shore, through fields, a cave, a pebble beach and then I arrived at White Park Bay - my destination for the day. White Park Bay is a long beach which only has three entries - and none of them are easy. Which explains that despite the gorgeous weather there were only few people on the beach - later, as I would hike it back during dusk, it would be completely deserted.

I hiked up to the Whitepark House B&B, and was surprised about the time - it was past 17 o’clock. I was just a 15 km walk, but with all my photo and video breaks it took me five hours to get here from the Giant’s Causeway. I didn’t mind, though - I had a fabulous day! Bob welcomed me with tea and we had a we chat, before I jumped under the shower and got a lift to Ballintoy from him. I had Dinner at the Fullerton Arms and then strolled down towards Ballintoy Harbour. Now if you know me, you probably are aware that my wife and me are huge Game of Thrones fans, and so I of course could not not go visit Ballintoy Harbour - the Causeway Coast Way also goes past it, so you really can’t miss it! Some scenes where shot here, and again I had amazing luck and a very pretty sunset to photograph! I hiked back towards White Park Bay (including a scramble up the cliff and down as the normal path along the water was under water) and arrived again very late at the B&B. Somehow I didn’t manage to go to sleep early on this trip - I am blaming the fabulous sunsets!

White Park Bay - Ballycastle

The next morning rain drops were covering the window, and the clouds which were moving in the last evening now covered the whole sky and didn’t let me see far. No problem! A tasty Irish breakfast at one long table with the other guests - a couple from the USA and a lady from Australia - made for a pleasant start into the day. I really like these long tables where you have to sit together with the other guests, it brings people from different walks of life together and always has been a good experience and makes for great conversations. After breakfast I went out to explore the garden of the B&B, which is absolutely lovely. I wanted to become a Gardener or Landscape Architect when I was younger, and visiting a Garden like the one at Whitepark House make me long for that.

Then the options were:
A. Hike along the street, in the rain, to Carrick-A-Rede
B. Hike along the beach, in the rain, to Carrick-A-Rede
C. Get a ride, out of the rain, to Carrick-A-Rede

I opted for C.

Carrick-A-Rede is the 2nd honey pot along the Causeway Coast Way, mainly because of the Rope Bridge and Larrybane, which also has been a location in Game of Thrones. I opted to go see the Rope Bridge. If I would see it, as the cliffs were shrouded in mist.

The trail is wide, with some steps here and there, sheep on the right side, the white cliffs on the left (if you can see them) and then you’re standing at the wee gate where they control the flow of people across the bridge. I showed my ticket and waited till the people from the island crossed the bridge, which hangs 30 m high above the sea, connecting the Carrick-A-Rede island to the mainland. The old Fishermen Cottage is still there (but you can’t go in) and then there’s lots of slippery grass slopes which allow you to see out to sea and observe the nesting birds. If you can see them =)

I explored the island, observed the birds and the mist, and then got in line to get back over the rope bridge. As I was hiking back to Ballintoy more and more people were on the path to the rope bridge, despite the not so good weather. As I hiked up towards the street I was pondering my options: Hike on the busy street, in the rain, to Ballycastle, or hop on the Rambler Bus to Ballycastle. Just as I reached the street the Bus came up the road, and like a reflex my arm went up. I purchased a Rambler Ticket to get to Ballycastle and then to Coleraine. As I was sitting in front of the bus I congratulated me on this reflex move - the narrow street would have been no fun to hike. 10 minutes later I got off the bus at the harbour of Ballycastle, and strolled down to the beach. The official end of the Causeway Coast Way hike is up in the village, but for me, I decided, this hike ends here, at the beach in Ballycastle, 50-something kilometres away from the start in Portstewart Strand. It felt odd to be finished - it was early in the day, I hadn’t hiked a whole lot yet, and really wanted to keep on moving.

I took out the Drone, captured some stunning footage of the mist rolling in over the town, and then walked back to the bus stop. A raven, sitting on the rocks of the quayside, looked at me, and seemed to agree that it’s a shame I had to finish here. The ferry to Rathlin Island left the harbour and I wished I would have had another day to explore this little island, see the Puffins, and breath in more of this beautiful atmosphere up here in Northern Ireland. The next time!

Practicalities: Getting around, Where to stay & What to eat

I flew into Dublin and both Finnair and SAS have daily connections into the capital of Ireland, as well to Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland. Every major airline flies to Ireland, so it should be easy to find a flight to the green island. As the Aircoach Bus from Dublin Airport to Belfast Central is only £14 and takes two relaxed hours I suggest flying into Dublin, it usually is also cheaper. From Belfast I took the train to Coleraine and from there the Bus to Portstewart. It’s all super easy and I used Translink to plan my journey and check timetables. They run very regularly, even on holidays and Sundays, so getting around is not difficult at all and hence no car is needed.

I stayed in Bed & Breakfasts and a Hotel, and ate out every evening. In Portstewart I stayed at the fantastic Cul Erg B&B. Marie and JJ were wonderful hosts and the breakfast was outstanding! I had a single room with a shower and a comfy bed, and it is close to the trail so makes for a logical stop. If you arrive like me late in the afternoon after a day of travelling it is a nice to stretch the legs and head to Portstewart Strand, which is a 3 km stroll from the B&B.

The next night I stayed at the Causeway Hotel, and the name already lets you guess why I stayed here: It’s the closest accommodation to the Giant’s Causeway! The Hotel is run by the National Trust and is very nice - it has this old-time charm and both staff and rooms were excellent. If you stay at the Hotel you also get free entry to the Causeway Visitors Centre. I ate dinner here too, which was very tasty, and they too had a local beer for me to sample!

My last night on the trail I spent at the beautiful Whitepark House where Bob was my amazing host. He not only makes an exquisite Irish breakfast, also the house and garden are fantastic and I loved exploring it. Extra points for giving me a ride into town so I could have Dinner and walk back via Ballintoy Harbour and the beach!

In my experience the wild camping laws in Ireland are “complicated” and it is easier to stay at a B&B and eat at a Pub or Restaurant than carry the camping gear & food. If you prefer sleeping outdoors - I have seen people camp in little bays and on beaches, so if you practice a Leave No Trace principle, pitch late and leave early I imagine you’re fine. There certainly are a lot of nice spots to camp - the only problem will be fresh water, which you probably need to get along the towns in a Café or Shop.

In Portstewart I ate at Harry’s Shack and had a local beer from a small local Portstewart brewery. It was outstanding - Service, food, beer. If you start your hike at Portstewart Strand, you definitely should have lunch or dinner here!

In Ballintoy I dined on Fish & Chips at the Fullerton Arms, which was good and plenty. I also tried their Mussels, which were very tasty, and it all washed down nicely with a beer from Dublin (not Guiness!). According to Bob the Fullerton is the best place to eat in Ballintoy, so I can not comment on the other establishments in town =)

As I ended my thru-hike in Ballycastle I took the Rambler Bus back to Coleraine, from where I took the train back to Belfast and Dublin. The Rambler drives once every hour and pretty much covers the whole hike like I walked it, which was nice to see the places again from the street. There’s also a Bus to Ballymena from where you can get faster to Belfast. Use the Translink App to get the best options, it’s really a well made app (and is free). If you’re less in a hurry to get home than me, spend another night in Ballycastle. There’s Kinbane Castle close by (and along the trail, so worth a detour) and from Ballycastle you can take the ferry to Rathlin Island, where you can see Puffins!

The hike is beautiful from start to finish (expect maybe the bit to Ballycastle where you hike on the road, but you can take the Bus!) and there’s not a lot of hikers on it - day hikers, yes, but few people who hike it from Portstewart to Ballycastle or the other way around. The trails are very well marked and you can’t get lost, there’s also free map printouts on the Walk NI page if you feel you need them (I saved them in an open tab on the phone and a had a look at it once in a while, but you’re pretty much always hike next to the sea - if you can’t see the sea anymore, you likely took a wrong turn or are sitting in an Irish Pub). You could hike the Causeway Coast Way in anything from one very long day where you miss out on all the good views, to four or five days. I think six days including travelling is ideal, that’d allow you to also explore Rathlin Island, Belfast or Dublin a bit.

Also, there’s more photos on Flickr.

The Gear

I already made a PHGT Video, probably easiest to watch that if you want to know what I was wearing and carrying:

Just some key pieces which I’d like to point out [Disclaimer! I’m a Houdini Friend and Helsport Ambassador]: The Houdini Activist Tee is pretty much the only T-Shirt I own, I got rid of all others. These shirts are simply super comfortable, don’t smell sweaty even after several days of hiking, and are easy to wash in a sink. Equally great is the Houdini MTM Motion Lite Pants, these are very thin softshell pants which keep insects, the sun and wind from my legs, and allow me to scramble and climb. I love my Luna Sandals OSO Flaco and wear them whenever I can. There’s no better pair of shoes for me during the warm time of the year, if you have not yet tried Luna Sandals you really are missing out! I had a Houdini Wisp Jacket and a Houdini Come Along Jacket to keep me warm and out of the wind/ rain, I wore these only the last day and during the evenings. I also only brought one pack for everything, that was the Helsport Snota Xtreme 40. It carried very comfortable the whole time, I only should make the hipbelt straps shorter as they are waaaaaay to long. I really like the Zipper on this pack, it allows me to easily access the inside and get e.g. my Tripod out.

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Cottage Interview: Tom Gale of Atom Packs

In the 3rd Cottages Interview of 2018 we get to know Tom Gale of Atom Packs 🇬🇧

Atom Packs I found when Alex Roddie tweeted about the company earlier this year, and like Alex I think the packs which Tom makes are really great looking with smart details. As I was making the list of companies to interview for this series Tom has one of the first ones I contacted, and I am very happy that he agreed to participate (he’s super-busy and hasn’t had a day off in four weeks, so order your pack AFTER you read this interview, OK ;). Without much further ado - here’s Tom’s Interview!

Tom, please briefly introduce yourself and tell us who you are. Since when are you backpacking, and how did you start?

Who am I? Whoa now, this could get deep. I guess I’m a hiker: It is at the core of nearly everything I do.

I started long distance hiking in 2009, setting off on the Appalachian Trail like so many others under a crippling load with as many things strapped to the outside of my bag as were inside. I think I also had maybe 8L of water with me. Urgh. That guy. The longer I hiked, the more content and quiet my busy brain became and I swiftly began to feel that this had to be something that I built my life around. I came home and began working towards becoming a professionally certified Outdoor Guide and, within a few years, was doing what I loved and sharing my passions with others every day.

How often are you outdoors nowadays?

Hahaha, less so now than I would like. I tend to get out on my mountain bike for at least an hour a day. This business expanded much quicker than I’d anticipated but I try and find the time, normally I work until about 7pm and then get out for an hour, chasing the sunset through the trees on one of the mountains near my house. I’m pretty well situated for some incredible riding, even if I’m exhausted it always makes me feel better.

Are you more of a “weekend warrior” or do you have some long distance trips under your belt?

I’m a huge fan of micro adventure. I try and get out most weekends but the reality is that currently I don’t get much time off - Hopefully soon things will come back under a little more control. I live surrounded by mountains and lakes and it’s very easy to just grab a pack and go, but I suppose my priorities are currently with growing my business.

I have hiked some 12,000 miles now on the big three trails in the US, the Te Araroa and another few thousand miles around the coast of England. I don’t plan on stopping any time soon, this business might try and stop me but, hey, I’m thirty years old and it’s about time I tried some of this so-called “adulting”. I promised myself I’d give the business three years and see where I am at, only then will I decide if it was a dumb idea.

Hiking in Finland Readers & me, we are gear-nerds! What is your typical baseweight?

That’s a great question. I actually have no idea. Somewhere between 3 - 5 kg. I used to count every gram but after my third major hike I realised it didn’t actually make much difference to me - I’m a big guy, 6ft7 and 100 kg and I eat an absolutely OBSCENE amount of food, at least 2kg a day when on trail so my pack weight is always pretty heinous when leaving town. I also realised it was completely relative – my 3.5kg base weight felt just at terrible the day I left town on the PCT in 2015 as it did leaving town on the AT in 2009 with a 9kg base weight. It doesn’t matter what your baseweight is – your bag will ALWAYS feel like shit the day you leave town. Why worry about a couple of ounces here and there when you are about to hike out an entire rotisserie chicken, three avocados, a bunch of bananas, some beer and whole loaf of bread out of town… It’s good training. I’m not belittling the gram counting approach – for people who have some control over there caloric intake I’m sure it’s very justified – I will just always completely fill my bag with food regardless of how long it is to the next town so the base weight becomes a pretty small percentage of that.

There are a lot of hikers who can starve themselves on trail and come into town with zero calories i.e. without a morsel of food left in their bags. This is the elusive thru hiking “gold star” but, the reality of achieving that largely gives me an anxiety attack, I think I’ve only ever done it twice in 12,000 miles and I nearly fainted. It’s completely out of my control.

I do try to stay under 3.5kg but my process on a thru hike is always the same. I start heavier than I want to, then pare my gear down over the first couple of months, shedding everything I can, and then I realise I’m cold and uncomfortable and in as amazing hiking shape as I’ll ever be and then start adding luxuries items again. I’d say I’m at my most ultra light eight weeks into a hike.

Please tell us where the name “Atom Packs” came from, and what it stands for.

I was trying to think of the smallest, lightest thing that I could. Initially the name was Atomic Ultralight but try typing that into Google and you’ll quickly realise why I changed it, you just can’t compete with the entire spectrum of information on quantum physics. I was stuck on the name for ages and then one day the name Atom Packs came to me. The fact it’s got my name in it as well is just a very happy accident – A-Tom Packs. People give me credit for that. They shouldn’t.

What makes Atom Packs different from other cottages?

I make durable, lightweight gear (Dura-lite if you will!). I build the best packs that I can out of the best materials available to me. Sure, there may be lighter materials available, but that comes at a cost of either durability or comfort. The way I see it, there has to be some sense behind design: A backpack has the hardest job of any piece of gear that you carry, it is responsible for holding onto literally everything else that you take with you into the wilds and an extra few grams in its design can greatly increase both the durability of the pack and the carrying comfort of the user - In my view that is well worth the weight penalty. If you design a pack right, you won’t know that it’s heavier because the weight is working FOR you, not AGAINST you.

I think, in essence, most companies are all in this for the same reason: There isn’t the gear that we desire available to us, so we make our own. Every hiker on the planet has a different way of doing things, so I aim to create the gear that individual people want. Sure, some people will say that another brand/ fabric/ method is better, and they could well be right when it comes to their way of hiking, but I have designed my brand to be flexible to peoples needs so, I’d ask that person to shoot me an email and lets talk. It’s a great learning experience for me as well as people force me to step out of my comfort zone and design something new – quite a few of these requests have actually become part of my daily designs.

Is Atom Packs your full-time job or “just a hobby”?

It’s now full time! Argh! I have some token bits of guiding work over the summer but the reality is that I can’t really afford the time away from the business at present so, yep, I now sew for 70+ hours a week. It’s pretty intense.

Atom Packs makes lightweight and stylish backpacks and backpack accessories. Can you tell us how the idea to start the company emerged and how you see its future?

It mostly came from a need to create the gear that I wanted - I’m so tall that any off the shelf backpack/ daypack that I bought ended up with its hipbelt somewhere below my nipples. Combine this with a natural curiosity for the unknown and I found myself sitting at a sewing machine making quite a horrible mess. That is basically the process that is still ongoing today, if not a little more refined!

In the coming weeks I am moving into a proper workshop. Here I will expand my production to cope with demand and begin training up an employee or two. I know that this business cannot possibly expand any more than it currently is with me crouched over a sewing machine for 70+hours a week. The danger is that I eventually have some kind of sewing-induced break down and run bare-assed and screaming into the cold night, never to be seen again. A lot of cottage companies have gone the same way and I’m trying really hard to not make the same mistakes. I’m still slipping and sliding my way along the learning curve but my processes are getting more refined with each day.

Any intentions of starting to branch out into other segments, for example offering shelters and bivys?

Yes… but lets not get ahead of ourselves.

Are there any other cottage manufacturers in the United Kingdom that you work with?

Not at present. Everyone I have spoken with has been very supportive though! I’d love to team up with a few brands in the future, that way we can all benefit.

And are you in touch with other cottage manufacturers in Europe, Japan, Canada, the USA and other places?

Other than a few messages/ comments via Instagram, not currently. There are some great companies making some great kit out there, Instagram gives you a nice peek into what they’re up to.

Your company is a just several months old and already has been getting good reviews and praise from all across Europe. Is business going well?

Haha, yes it blew up pretty quickly didn’t it!? I properly launched the website at the end of February and quickly got far more orders than I knew what to do with. I don’t advertise or spend money on promotion, I’m just trying to let it naturally grow by putting the product out there to be seen. Any product worth its salt will succeed, given the chance, I’m just very wary of outstripping my production capacity. I think that’s always the issue with cottage companies – when you are one guy in a shed it is easy to get overwhelmed and something that started off as creative and fun becomes a great, snarling monster that consumes most of your life. It’s been quite a journey, that’s for sure.

Can you tell us a bit how you went about the design process of The Atom pack, and where the inspiration came from?

I used to work with Adrian Moore at Aiguille Alpine Equipment and he used to say that “if you take away everything else, a rucksack at its most basic is just a potato sack with straps”. The Atom came from stripping back everything that I knew about backpacks and starting from the ground up. I wanted people to be able to start with a tube and add whatever they wanted to it, The Atom as you see it is exactly the pack that I would want on a thru-hike, it just happens that that has become the standard design.

I have to give some credit to “Dubstep”, my esteemed hiking companion of 5000 miles. I asked her to design her perfect backpack and she, not taking the process particularly seriously, designed a pack with rockets on the side pockets. That’s what inspired some of the Atom’s aesthetic, I was trying to make it look like a rocket.

Tom, we love to be let in on the work-in-progress stuff! What kind of new products are you working on at the moment?

Removable carbon frames. They’re the future!

And any new lightweight materials that have you all excited?

Liteskin by Dimension Polynant. I bought a bunch of it and have been experimenting with it a little. KS Ultralight have been using it but I’ve not seen any long term reviews yet. It strikes me as a really solid fabric that, for its weight, is pretty incredible. I designed a 35L Atom with a padded hipbelt that came in at under 380g - that’s pretty special! The big test will be how well it holds up. I’ve been working with Andrew Sherry (@thehikingstory on Instagram) – I’m keen to send him one to try and break it just to see how well it holds up as there have been no real long term tests done yet and everyone, myself included, are a little twitchy.

How works the R&D at Atom Packs, do you have a need yourself that you try to fix, or do some of your clients inspire you for new products and ask you for solutions to their problems, which then are adopted in the Atom Packs line-up?

Yes, I think I sort of answered this before. I have already solved the problems that I have encountered, so when people come to you with new issues it can really help to develop the product forwards.

And where do your customer come from, and how do they find you?

I put something on Reddit in February and it sort of went a bit wild from there. I sell a lot of packs to Germany and Scandinavia, I’ve also sent packs to New Zealand, USA, Canada and even Brazil. Basically anywhere. I’ve been amazed at how the Internet has driven this business forward, it has been simultaneously humbling and terrifying – the world is a very small place these days.

When and where was your last trip?

My last big hike was the Continental Divide Trail, I’ve only just properly gotten over it mentally 🤣. Otherwise I try and get out on day hikes where I can. It’s good for the soul and a great excuse to test backpacks.

And where is your dream trip taking you?

The Te Araroa south island was about as happy as I have ever been. It was also the most amount of times I have ever nearly died in a period of time. I’d hike it again in a heartbeat! I’m aiming to go for the Arizona Trail this October but can not figure out if I can stop this runaway train I’m currently sitting on. I guess the dream trip is the next one you are undertaking or the one you are currently on. And there are so many trails! Argh!

Any favourite piece of gear which you always carry with you?

I picked up an MSR Blizzard Stake on the CDT and quickly fell in love. They cost $5, weigh 1 oz and I use it for both camping and digging cat holes (because everybody poops). Not only do you feel like you can dig forever but I also put a bit of duct tape on the inside edge and would use it as a water spout to get water out of slow trickling springs, it was amazingly effective!

Are you planning to get out for a trip soon, and enjoy the summer in the United Kingdom?

I would like to start a continuous walk around the Wainrwrights, these are 214 fells situated in the Lake District National Park. I doubt I’d be able to do it in one go but I can dream! Otherwise I am determined to hike the AZT in October. There are a load of 200 mile hikes in my vicinity. It’s just having the time!

Social Media - on which channels is Atom Packs active?

@atom_packs on Instagram. I need to get Facebook and Twitter set up properly so watch this space. It’s very distracting though.

Tom, I thank you very mucho for taking the time to answer my questions =) Is there something you would like to add?

I guess I’d like to encourage those who are seeking out their first UL setup go with their gut and not just the status quo. It takes many hundreds, if not thousands, of miles to truly understand what you need and don’t need. Just because you want a pack with a padded hipbelt does not mean you are no longer qualified to call yourself ultralight, no matter what they say on the forums.

Instead of obsessing over gear lists or whatever everyone else is doing, just throw some stuff in a bag and go hiking. If it works for you, keep it, if it’s cheap, even better. There are many thousands of ways to spend many thousands of dollars on gear. The best way to know what works is to go and actually do it yourself and then slowly, piece by piece, replace items for lighter alternatives. Once you understand an items use and, more importantly how you interact with it, then you can make a truly informed decision. Otherwise the danger is buying every piece of gear three or four times before you get it right – and that doesn’t leave you much money for hamburgers and beer. Thanks for your time, see you down the trail ☺

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Impressions From the Causeway Coast Way

Northern Ireland, or Ireland in general, is not really a country which you associate with sunshine, 26°C hiking days and long, almost empty beaches and cliff paths. However, to my surprise this was exactly what I encountered on my thru-hike of the Causeway Coast Way!

Disclosure: This trip was supported by Tourism Ireland and Discover Northern Ireland, additionally I also received a fee for my work. This does not influence the article as I maintain full editorial control of the content published on this site. Read the Transparency Disclaimer for more information on affiliate links & blogger transparency.

At home in Vaasa, Finland, I have since six weeks wall-to-wall ☀️ every day, and as I was starting to have an eye on the weather forecasts of Portstweart, Bushmills and Ballycastle, I was happy to see that I will be equally blessed with superb weather during my hike on the Causeway Coast Way in Northern Ireland. So into my carry-on backpack went my Luna Sandals, sunscreen and T-Shirts while the rain pants and jacket stayed at home. I did not regret that decision - maybe the only thing I did regret was that I didn’t apply the sunscreen more often and that I didn’t add a few extra days to explore more of this beautiful part of Ireland.

My detailed trip report will follow in the next weeks, but for now enjoy these B-Roll impressions from the trail and it’s quaint little towns which lay along it. Right now this is still a fairly unknown trail, and while at some points along it you will encounter a lot of people this trail likely will soon be as popular as the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland which is renown for equally stunning scenery.

I arrived in Portstewart late in the afternoon, but the weather was so good - I had to go out and hike to the beach. Which was totally worth it!

The next day I hiked to the Giant’s Causeway, which is World Heritage site and can be very busy. But go there late in the evening or early in the morning and you’ll likely have it to yourself. It’s a mind-boggling beautiful place, and I didn’t plan for enough time there - I feel a photographer wants at least a full day to spend here!

I hiked onwards in the heat, along cliff paths which had me stop every few hundred meters to soak in the landscape which is just breath-taking.

On my last day on the trail the drizzle and clouds made an appearance, and also them I found beautiful and serene. And just like that I finished in Ballycastle, sad that this beautiful hike was already over.

Stay tuned for the full trip-report in the next couple of weeks, but take a look some more photos in the Flickr Album and on Instagram!

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